{"meta":{"id":"https:\/\/api.iclient.ifeng.com\/ipadtestdoc?aid=ucms_7yGGNt8j1Rc","type":"doc","o":"1","documentId":"ucms_7yGGNt8j1Rc"},"body":{"newStatus":"1","documentId":"ucms_7yGGNt8j1Rc","staticId":"ucms_7yGGNt8j1Rc","title":"如果用海子的诗句来形容丽江,一定是:太阳强烈,水波温柔","shareTitle":"如果用海子的诗句来形容丽江,一定是:太阳强烈,水波温柔","thumbnail":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/w150_h106_q100\/img1.ugc.ifeng.com\/newugc\/20200720\/17\/wemedia\/337e2f13e0088ddca8e860c05be7593403fe03d5_size25_w512_h341.jpeg","source":"丽江华尚","author":"","editorcode":"weMedia","editTime":"2020-07-20 17:22:48","updateTime":"2020\/07\/20 17:22:48","wapurl":"http:\/\/\/\/feng.ifeng.com\/c\/7yGGNt8j1Rc","introduction":"","wwwurl":"http:\/\/\/\/feng.ifeng.com\/c\/7yGGNt8j1Rc","commentsUrl":"ucms_7yGGNt8j1Rc","commentCount":0,"text":"
<\/p>
如果要找一个地方,停放我们嘈杂的内心,<\/p>
如果要寻一个城市,找找自己那历经尘世喧嚣的灵魂;<\/p>
如果,只给我一张机票的机会,<\/p>
我还是会选择这座<\/p>
惊艳了时光初照的高原小城<\/p>
—— 丽江。<\/p>
<\/p>
纳西族人黝黑的脸庞,<\/p>
源自那吹过雪山与旷野的风。<\/p>
这里旷世的美艳景色,<\/p>
袭自云贵高原与青藏高原交界处的冰川与湖泊。<\/p>
而在这样的景色里搭建起一座循水而建的古城,<\/p>
则是纳西族人千百年间,在雪山下的思考和揣摩。<\/p>
金沙江古称丽水,于是这座被金沙江环抱的高原坝子中,<\/p>
我用以休憩灵魂,观测内心的城市<\/p>
被称作丽江。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
行程安排:<\/p>
交通:南京直飞丽江(免去昆明中转,很方便)<\/p>
主要景点:丽江古城、束河古镇、玉龙雪山、文海、白沙古村、丽江千古情<\/p>
住宿:大研古城<\/p>
美食:野生菌、雪山冷水鱼、土鸡火锅、腊排骨火锅<\/p>
<\/p>
—大研古城—<\/p>
“梦想生活的乌托邦,什么都不做,<\/p>
只看屋顶和天空就让人着迷”<\/p>
<\/p>
刚到丽江,凉爽的气温让我惊讶,在全国都进入夏天的时候,丽江的气温真的只有25度,一点燥热的感觉都没有。刚出机场就能闻见丽江雨季湿润的空气,中间夹杂着泥土草木的芬芳。我们选在大研古城里住宿,位置在古城北门附近,城内的路比较难找,一定要严格跟着导航的位置,我们没有麻烦管家小哥,自己动手拿行李,办理入住以后就赶紧收拾收拾,休息一会儿就出门啦。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
夜晚的古城比白天好看,所有的屋顶都有暖黄色的灯带,整个古城特别温馨热闹。我们提前做好了攻略,在天黑之前去了文昌宫俯瞰整个古城的傍晚。拍完照再去逛夜晚的古城。<\/p>
如果你是摄影爱好者也一定要来这个地方打个卡!<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
晚上可以去酒吧街转一转,至于进不进去就看自己啦,我们不太爱喝酒,所以就只是在门口感受了一下丽江的“酒吧文化”,感觉像个乌托邦,所有人都在这里放下了原本紧张的生活,松弛与放肆,才是这条街的主题。<\/p>
<\/p>
白天的古城少了夜晚的热闹浪漫,但是却多了清闲和澄澈。<\/p>
每一条街的巷弄中,都有一片被飞檐框出的蓝天,加上每家每户门口的鲜花,整个小城在贯彻的水流中,散发着独属丽江的美学氛围。<\/p>
<\/p>
靠近南门,近水的房子,全部挂着彩色的驼铃,我想,也只有长久的住在这样的地方,人们才会有爱美的心情吧。想到在城市每个赶着地铁的清晨,才觉得只有这里的时光,值得被神灵放慢。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
-玉龙雪山-<\/p>
“一定有神灵在这片山谷下沐浴,<\/p>
这里的水才变成了神圣的蓝”<\/p>
<\/p>
早就听说玉龙雪山是纳西族人的情山和圣山,这个少数民族主要分布在丽江,也是他们在过去的千百年间,建造了我们熟知的世界文化遗产——丽江古城。<\/p>
丽江古城是由三个古城组成的,分别是我们住着的大研古城、还有靠近雪山的束河古镇和白沙古村,丽江不大,这三个古镇离得都很近,打车20块钱就能搞定。而整个丽江都没有高层建筑,所以无论你住在哪座古城,都能够看见玉龙雪山。<\/p>
<\/p>
我们早晨就从大研古城出发去玉龙雪山,雪山离丽江城区不远,是一天之内就能搞定的行程。我们去的那天很幸运,蓝月谷的水特别蓝,这里有很多情侣拍婚纱照,我们也感慨怎么能这么漂亮,后来听当地人说,这里是《消失的地平线》中描绘的蓝月山谷,而美丽的“香格里拉”就是源自这本外国小说。蓝月谷在雪山景区内,整个湖泊在天晴的时候,呈一片湖蓝色,清澈见底,而在湖水尽头,就是雪山的主体。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
去雪山一定要注意防晒,这里的海拔有4000多,紫外线也比山下更加强烈,女孩子最好再戴个墨镜。另外,很多人从来没有去过这么高海拔的地方,担心高反,就一定要准备好氧气和防寒服。<\/p>
-束河、白沙-<\/p>
“最初的丽江,就是这个模样”<\/p>
当地人推荐喔一定要来束河古镇和白沙古村逛逛,说这里是丽江商业化最少的地方,尤其是白沙,至今大部分居民都是当地的纳西族。<\/p>
<\/p>
白沙很小,半个小时就能逛完,这里有很多复古的小店、咖啡馆,也有许多外国人。不得不说,有时候,外国人真比我们会玩,他们最喜欢的就是这种原始、质朴的地方,所以在国外的旅行指南上,丽江的虎跳峡、白沙古镇都更著名一些。<\/p>
<\/p>
白沙在我眼里,是一座静谧的小村,中心位置有当地的老奶奶坐在路边卖菜卖水果,临街的店铺都很复古,店主都是很有情怀的“老丽江”。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
因为商业化不高,所以这里的餐厅不多,我们晚上还是回到大研古城吃饭。正值丽江的雨季,这是吃货们最适合来丽江的季节,因为这是大名鼎鼎的“云南野生菌”上市的季节。<\/p>
<\/p>
挑了好几家,还是选择了一个比较大的馆子,在门口就看见有很多人,店里的灯光很好,座椅也很local,整个大厅很通透,有种大家济济一堂坐在一起吃饭的热闹感觉。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
它叫石锅渔山珍馆,我们可就是来吃云南的“山珍”的,虽然名字里有“鱼”,但是在这个季节,他们就是一家野生菌餐厅!<\/p>
据说云南的许多野生菌是需要特别的制作方式的,不然会中毒,所以我们路过忠义市场看到很多卖野生菌的当地爷爷奶奶,也不敢乱买。花花绿绿的菌子看起来就很奇怪,但是据说鲜美异常。所以挑一家专业制作野生菌的餐厅吃,才比较放心,位置也很方便,就在古城的忠义市场附近。<\/p>
<\/p>
刚进店服务员就让我们选自己喜欢的位置坐,因为今年疫情,所以整个古城人不算多,但这家大厅已经满满当当坐得差不多啦。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
店里装修特别简洁,大门在餐厅中也算是很用心的了,我们点的菌子锅,还有云南的炸竹节虫。鸡汤打底,加上几种野生菌,香鲜无比。加了奶浆菌、牛肝菌(传说中的见手青),还有竹荪。要慢慢煮够20分钟,等得焦急,但是出锅的第一口给我惊艳到了,鸡汤吊的汤底本身就很香,加上牛肝菌的鲜,真的突然就理解了为什么云南人钟爱吃野生菌了。突然就不舍得回南京,不在云南,还怎么吃这么新鲜的小蘑菇呢!整个丽江的行程中吃的最高兴的一餐,下次来丽江一定还要来打卡。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
-文海-<\/p>
“小众的丽江后花园<\/p>
——在湖泊边的牧场,<\/p>
牵着马拍一组写真吧”<\/p>
最后一天,由于是夜晚的航班,白天上午我们就自驾去了文海,这是一个鲜少有游客知道的地方。<\/p>
<\/p>
在束河和白沙之间的山背后,有一汪湖泊,滋养出了一片草甸,于是这个村落就把它当成了一个天然牧场,豢养着牛和马,在山水间恣意的过自己的生活。<\/p>
<\/p>
这里的马很温顺,遇见我们也不慌不忙,安然吃草。没有门票,没有围栏,没有警示牌。遇见一个原始而质朴的丽江,本身就是这样简单。落山风吹在草甸上,牛犊和母牛依偎,我们就捡了野花放进口袋。牵起马绳,发现远处的湖泊对岸,有几尊白塔。<\/p>
原是有神灵庇佑,这片净土才能尘封至今,不改如初呀。<\/p>
<\/p>
下午,抓紧最后的时间,去感受了一下丽江本土的文化精髓——《丽江千古情》,整个演出近一个小时,用文化演绎的方式讲述了丽江的马帮文化、泸沽湖的摩梭人、玉龙雪山的殉情……一定要这样完整的感受一次,才能从中透见丽江的文化之美。<\/p>
<\/p>
剧院中的演员们都特别卖力,整个舞美设计绝对值回这一次旅行,看到最后一幕的纳西男女殉情时,才明白纳西族人世代传承的的勇敢和真诚。<\/p>
<\/p>
<\/p>
-生活原本就是一场别离的旅行-<\/p>
从呱呱落地的第一天开始,<\/p>
我们就学着成长,学着和稚嫩的自己告别。<\/p>
渐行渐远的除了过去的日子,还有清澈的灵魂。<\/p>
海子的诗句是多少人的梦呀,<\/p>
面朝大海,春暖花开。<\/p>
可是生活在钢铁森林之中,<\/p>
每天面对的是业绩、生计、竞争…<\/p>
<\/p>
时间成了逼迫我们前进的魔鬼,走进赛场,就难以功成身退。嘈杂的地铁站,拥挤的十字路口,狭小的格子间……挤压的除了时间,还有我们的灵魂。<\/p>
<\/p>
于是这座叫做丽江的小城,成为了一个乌托邦的存在。<\/p>
唯一不同的是,这里每一日的太阳强烈、水波温柔,都无比真实。仍然有无数人被它治愈,仍然有无数人,几经辗转,依然惊艳于它千百年来倾世的灵魂。<\/p>","img":[{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/E89857C04C92562CF9AD9B90B210673AC541097C_size18_w640_h244.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"244"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/ECA5111B8F935112DFBDFF3925A35A3741EFE301_size54_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/618AC83833047FC93AF43F222B8F610568AD2C11_size22_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/F07D3B328D102C93ED75EE5084D6C919DD2FADCD_size62_w640_h428.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"428"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/0C816D26010068B58332D0108DBE75F1065A3DBA_size28_w640_h263.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"263"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/180B87DB28DF368532840FF3764F590CE756C5D8_size42_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/5C00C98EA81ACF4F6A5DBDCEF28648AD3F665883_size46_w640_h404.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"404"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/5D17BC14D5F20E86B917F419DB59AD5DFED2AEFC_size38_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/ECA5111B8F935112DFBDFF3925A35A3741EFE301_size54_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/7018A102AA1B85B0BA28E864AF48F7CB0784AF9C_size41_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/E15AA4F1E405CA63542648C0F5F8E79784070D9A_size50_w640_h480.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"480"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/B75E0498E555F5DC6FCF80A5D65E1BBC532DA9FA_size53_w640_h480.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"480"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/AB6968D543963A175C9052394BD63BF7C97D6C02_size43_w640_h960.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"960"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/3C2228A0CDCF5FC7A95CA4689172EEB5A3534EE6_size49_w640_h960.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"960"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/78FF5C5B698B5DFA5B5B7E7ADDD95D7756D7E004_size110_w640_h480.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"480"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/B6667B706370B53906F57BC7C06D81CF27AC30A0_size38_w640_h480.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"480"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/D437F3FC89F48A1046B6803B152DDFBCA0C2DDE6_size61_w640_h480.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"480"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/25C30CDEE66B84F0740E6D15D4FB41BD8C8A71B6_size74_w640_h480.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"480"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/1780A3CD390740F220F8E1D352FB76CF4DD4FA12_size23_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/3E726C5A87ECEC970F0CA636CC1ED871B2487F62_size50_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/E2A5C058AF827EFD430B77C497D26205AB8F2F57_size63_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/CAE0E71473AD8B1C52447B01CF4172A7B3C237C2_size63_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/0ED1779B5F27C181797A1EABBB8D0BFD0BF77EC5_size71_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/7CF98C401143842202ACBF901F4D8D85C518CE8E_size37_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/EB584042FB7B52417C25919AD0C64CFFD32DADEE_size51_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/D37935B499A7FCC5DB4AFC3E4D9F09DE2DF904E9_size82_w640_h960.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"960"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/ED455386863C4E1C6D6866A4AA6C97CD05C95E8E_size57_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"427"}},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/509F9F9672681D7B957E6DF9C9A0B5013D1173C6_size62_w640_h427.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","heigh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