{"meta":{"id":"https:\/\/api.iclient.ifeng.com\/ipadtestdoc?aid=ucms_7ywEVHWsMBk","type":"doc","o":"1","documentId":"ucms_7ywEVHWsMBk"},"body":{"newStatus":"1","documentId":"ucms_7ywEVHWsMBk","staticId":"ucms_7ywEVHWsMBk","title":"沈阳鸡架,东北菜的幕后大佬","shareTitle":"沈阳鸡架,东北菜的幕后大佬","thumbnail":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/w150_h106_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/ucms\/2020_33\/274662790B1D7341B1A7E98AC4F43C2D71EC3418_w600_h336.jpg","source":"","author":"","editorcode":"weMedia","editTime":"2020-08-14 20:50:52","updateTime":"2020\/08\/14 20:50:52","wapurl":"http:\/\/\/\/fashion.ifeng.com\/c\/7ywEVHWsMBk","introduction":"","wwwurl":"http:\/\/\/\/fashion.ifeng.com\/c\/7ywEVHWsMBk","commentsUrl":"ucms_7ywEVHWsMBk","commentCount":0,"text":"
作者 | 莺时<\/p>
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麻辣鸡架 摄影\/沉默的<\/p>
螺旋 图\/图虫・创意<\/p>
沈阳,鸡架之城。<\/p>
几乎每座城市,都有自己的隐秘美食。这道美食,或许不甚精致,又或者不被外人所知,但却是当地人心中,最无法取代的顶级快乐。<\/p>
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烤鸡架 图\/纪录片「宵夜江湖」<\/p>
总有人不理解,为何沈阳人会对肉少骨多的鸡架「爱不释口」,肥美的鸡腿、嫩滑的鸡翅它不香吗?这样的问题,沈阳人早已充耳不闻,毕竟手里泛着红光的鸡架,脆骨相连、紧致入味,香与不香的问题,已无需作答。<\/p>
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没有了鸡架 ,沈阳人将不再快乐<\/p>
很难说清,鸡架是如何与沈阳结缘的。但第一个吃鸡架的人,必定是热爱生活的人。<\/p>
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沈阳烧烤摊的宠儿,是鸡架 图\/纪录片「宵夜江湖」<\/p>
一如北京烤鸭的精巧贵气、武汉小龙虾的江湖气息,沈阳人的鸡架,充斥着满满的重工业风情。<\/p>
作为一座工业城市,产业工人占据了沈阳人口的大多数。早年间,人们的娱乐方式较少,喝酒聊天是大多数人消磨时光的首选。所以一到下班的时间,工厂周围的餐馆就坐满了人,桌子都摆到了马路边上。<\/p>
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实惠又味美,谁能不爱?摄影\/ daliantimor 图\/汇图网<\/p>
既然是以聊天为主,下酒的配菜自然不宜饱腹胀肚。也因此,肉少、油大、有滋味且价格实惠的鸡架,深得沈阳人的心。久而久之,「啃鸡架,喝老雪」成为了沈阳人的一种生活方式。<\/p>
大多时候,在沈阳吃鸡架,吃的就是一个热闹。一盘鸡架,几瓶啤酒,三五好友,一边和朋友唠嗑吹牛,一边用双手抓着鸡架,将其撕成片片小份。紧致的嫩肉,粘连着鸡架骨,略蘸些辣椒酱,入口的鲜嫩自是勾人无数。<\/p>
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新烤出来的鸡架 图\/纪录片「人生一串2」<\/p>
啃鸡架的乐趣,自然还在于鸡骨头本身。烹饪后的鸡骨,酥酥烂烂,被各种香料调教得有滋有味。嚼着骨头、大口喝酒,别有一番畅快淋漓的江湖意气。<\/p>
除了啤酒,抻面也是沈阳人啃鸡架的标配。类似于兰州的牛肉面,沈阳的抻面也有粗细之分,其中点单率最高的,是「二细」和「韭叶」。抻面的高汤,通常由整鸡熬制,经过长时间的熬煮,鸡肉与汤底合抱相融,剩余的鸡骨捞出,成为抻面的上桌必备。<\/p>
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抻面,鸡架的绝配 图\/纪录片「宵夜江湖」<\/p>
抻面盛碗后,撒入的榨菜和香菜,是味道的点睛。每个桌上都摆放着几个小罐,辣椒油、陈醋等调料丰俭由人。手工抻的面,劲道质朴,细尝还有丝浓郁的麦香。旁侧的鸡架,和抻面一般,有种「清水出芙蓉」的既视感。<\/p>
略带汤汁的鸡架,乖巧地躺在铁盘里,周身泛出极为诱人的光泽。双手开动,将其撕成小块,直接吮吸其原汁原味的鲜美,亦或者拌上些榨菜、香菜和辣椒,味道别提有多美妙。<\/p>
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沈阳鸡架的一万种吃法<\/p>
在沈阳,有多少只鸡,就有多少种鸡架吃法。几乎每个沈阳人,都有自己最喜欢的一种鸡架吃法。<\/p>
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煮鸡架 图\/纪录片「宵夜江湖」<\/p>
烤鸡架 - 沈阳烧烤摊的灭霸<\/p>
在「一天三顿小烧烤」的东北,最受欢迎的美食做法,莫过于「烧烤」这种古老的烹饪方式。<\/p>
在沈阳,最早出现的鸡架吃法,便是烧烤。烤鸡架,一般分为生烤和熟烤两种方式。所谓熟烤,需要事先将鸡架烫至半熟,之后再放上烤架进行烤制。而生烤,则是将腌制过的生鸡架,直接放在炭火上烤熟。相较于熟烤,生烤鸡架所耗费的时间较长,但胜在香、酥、焦、糊,在味道上更胜一筹。<\/p>
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滋滋冒油的烤鸡架 图\/纪录片「人生一串2」<\/p>
传统的烤鸡架,多使用古老的铁条篦子,一次能烤8个。经由炭火的烧烤,骨髓里的油脂被催出,附着在鸡架的表面,为其涂上一层锃亮的高光。最妙的是,在烤制过程中,于鸡架的表层,撒上一把白糖,经过炭火的催化,微微融化的白糖像是一层蜜汁包裹在鸡架上。<\/p>
香脆的鸡架,加上焦糖的气息,看似混搭跨界,却有着令人上瘾的魔力。<\/p>
炸鸡架 -「万物皆可天妇罗」<\/p>
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炸鸡架 图\/网络<\/p>
相较于烤鸡架的普适性,偏甜的炸鸡架更受年轻人的追捧。经过多重调料的腌制,自带香味的生鸡架,直接在油锅中「历劫重生」。随着热油的沸腾,鸡架的调料香,逐渐将周围的空气占领。<\/p>
炸好的鸡架,香香脆脆的,微微甜又微微辣。附在鸡架上的嫩肉,被炸至金褐色,用指尖剔下,翻出的肉粉色,极具引诱。<\/p>
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秘制五香炸鸡架 摄影\/美食摄影师微微 图\/汇图网<\/p>
但更诱人的,还得是骨头,从整幅鸡架上扯下一块骨头,连皮带骨一起送入口中,骨头的表层薄膜,早已被炸成酥脆的口感,各种调料的味道凝于其中。以舌尖裹着牙齿,将这层焦壳巧妙啃噬,内里的骨头早已被炸至酥软,略一用力便能将其嚼断,甚至还能溢出些骨髓的汤汁。<\/p>
熏拌鸡架 - 烟熏火燎的终极乐趣<\/p>
熏鸡架的灵感,取自辽宁特色的熏酱菜。烟熏火燎的烟火气,是熏鸡架专属的魅力。<\/p>
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熏鸡架 图\/网络<\/p>
相较于鸡架的其他做法,熏鸡架的烹饪步骤要复杂一些。酱卤之后,鸡架再于旺火中熏制。经过猛火的炙烤,鸡架内部的酱料,释放出浓香,而后与烟火作用,形成一股独特的烟香。不同于烤鸡架的现烤现吃,常见于熟食店的熏鸡架多为冷吃。<\/p>
鸡架上桌后,附带的手套,营造了啃鸡架的仪式感。大多时候,啃鸡架的终极乐趣,就在于拆骨。带上手套后,将整只熏鸡架,拆成任何形状,再撒上一层榨菜、香菜和辣椒,或清爽或辛香的滋味,与熏鸡架紧致略干的口感互为补充。而后再慢悠悠地剔干净骨缝里的碎肉,极富成就感。<\/p>
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熏鸡架之前,在锅底加一勺糖,是沈阳的古法糖熏工艺。加入白糖后,鸡架的颜色更加红润,鸡肉的味道也会带有丝丝甜意 图\/网络<\/p>
烀鸡架 - 清水出芙蓉<\/p>
当然,并非所有的鸡架都是重口味。在沈阳,鸡架也不乏鲜嫩的小清新吃法,比如烀鸡架。<\/p>
抻面馆里的煮鸡架,就属于烀鸡架的范畴。介于蒸与煮之间的烀鸡架,在高汤中煨得软嫩烂糊,既吸收了高汤的精华,又保留了鸡架的原味。即使不放任何调料,也丝毫感觉不到油腻。<\/p>
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烀鸡架 图\/网络<\/p>
啃烀鸡架时,几乎每次吃到最后,都会不小心把一次性手套弄破,即便如此,也不肯放弃。徒手啃食鸡架,那种痛快绝无仅有。烀鸡架的汤汁,顺着手指一路滑行,让人恨不得把手指都嗦喽嗦喽。<\/p>
辣炒鸡架 - 后起之秀<\/p>
在沈阳,美食从无定式。鸡架的做法,也从不拘泥于几种传统做法。辣炒鸡架,是近几年出现的吃法,甫一诞生,便收割了一众沈阳粉丝。<\/p>
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辣炒鸡架 摄影\/美食摄影师微微 图\/汇图网<\/p>
经过猛火爆炒,辣炒鸡架的味道更加浓郁,还有一丝甜辣的孜然味。每块鸡架,都十分入味,几乎都能带着骨头嚼食。入口后,咀嚼的快感,加上挑剔的乐趣,有种不可言说的幸福感。如果是辣炒鸡块,倒失去了这种微妙的感觉。<\/p>
将「食之无味,弃之可惜」的鸡肋,烹调成舌尖上的狂欢,可见沈阳人的奇妙想象力。但更重要的,还是沈阳人见招拆招的创造能力。<\/p>
<\/p>
鸡架的多种吃法,你更偏爱哪一款?<\/p>","img":[{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/AC5C8622B9533C7EC3BC0D7231B0BDA93CE897B9_size144_w853_h1280.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"960"}},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/9F8E99C1BBDFB36B77728422749E2D33A4C7C3E4_size2652_w640_h360.gif","size":{"width":"640","height":"360"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/9F8E99C1BBDFB36B77728422749E2D33A4C7C3E4_size2652_w640_h360.gif"},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/B2B8F5CA7D83317FE44C0F1F8F6AB0DE187181A9_size24_w1080_h304.png","size":{"width":"640","height":"180"}},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/8B84D9ADADC834AC267F3BB579D8EB4F4B0C3604_size3448_w640_h360.gif","size":{"width":"640","height":"360"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/8B84D9ADADC834AC267F3BB579D8EB4F4B0C3604_size3448_w640_h360.gif"},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/6D4AD99B6945F52FFDCD6B49416B532F59D193B3_size194_w1080_h1620.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"960"}},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/9490F93B80637EFF29A13BE19E1B3997576C085C_size1748_w480_h268.gif","size":{"width":"480","height":"268"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/9490F93B80637EFF29A13BE19E1B3997576C085C_size1748_w480_h268.gif"},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/21755FF87F6C0B98853602B26CCC9F5E54DDD487_size1584_w638_h346.gif","size":{"width":"638","height":"346"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/21755FF87F6C0B98853602B26CCC9F5E54DDD487_size1584_w638_h346.gif"},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/3BE599F9AD7CB8332BB067E126E1B2D871C80D3B_size25_w1080_h304.png","size":{"width":"640","height":"180"}},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/A77BE9D8CF252F40F016121C2BF668D7552CD857_size1101_w638_h346.gif","size":{"width":"638","height":"346"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/A77BE9D8CF252F40F016121C2BF668D7552CD857_size1101_w638_h346.gif"},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/AE26E883C6EF4F649AD47283B5D5A59589BE3A7A_size1501_w618_h341.gif","size":{"width":"618","height":"341"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/AE26E883C6EF4F649AD47283B5D5A59589BE3A7A_size1501_w618_h341.gif"},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/D0874D5FD8F56727A90AB8AE12616DA26ADFCDF0_size1362_w500_h375.gif","size":{"width":"500","height":"375"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/D0874D5FD8F56727A90AB8AE12616DA26ADFCDF0_size1362_w500_h375.gif"},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/44A5D4B5F8F636C8BD2847743F4F73ECBB21B403_size312_w1080_h1597.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"946"}},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/48C98229A0EC1956A4EE33D7F54363C420DB6E42_size1934_w560_h315.gif","size":{"width":"560","height":"315"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/48C98229A0EC1956A4EE33D7F54363C420DB6E42_size1934_w560_h315.gif"},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/F747ED19C0A25E52228D5AAA485F348648314521_size371_w480_h320.gif","size":{"width":"480","height":"320"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/F747ED19C0A25E52228D5AAA485F348648314521_size371_w480_h320.gif"},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/B148B57ABDC98483A4BE17874975A0CAD0E11C63_size1426_w600_h350.gif","size":{"width":"600","height":"350"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/B148B57ABDC98483A4BE17874975A0CAD0E11C63_size1426_w600_h350.gif"},{"url":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/F644667B56A013B86F807A78A9602ED7C6839CB4_size108_w1080_h747.jpeg","size":{"width":"640","height":"442"}},{"url":"https:\/\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/ADB44ABFB937AA8E10DFACE646B8DDE0026212EA_size1506_w640_h347.gif","size":{"width":"640","height":"347"},"resizedImg":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/mw640_q100_ext\/x0.ifengimg.com\/res\/2020\/ADB44ABFB937AA8E10DFACE646B8DDE0026212EA_size1506_w640_h347.gif"}],"summary":"作者|莺时麻辣鸡架摄影\/沉默的螺旋图\/图虫・创意沈阳,鸡架之城。几乎每座城市,都有自己的隐秘美食。这道美食,或许不甚精致,又或者不被外人所知,但却是当地人心中,","sharesummary":"作者|莺时麻辣鸡架摄影\/沉默的螺旋图\/图虫・创意沈阳,鸡架之城。几乎每座城市,都有自己的隐秘美食。这道美食,或许不甚精致,又或者不被外人所知,但却是当地人心中,","commentType":"0","wemediaEAccountId":"5644","showclient":"0","shareurl":"https:\/\/ishare.ifeng.com\/c\/s\/v002F2IJvcloPnlCfrNTV95qtXxCt2g5QElkP67T7L59W4U__","praise":"3","like_num":"3"}}