{"meta":{"id":"https:\/\/api.iclient.ifeng.com\/ipadtestdoc?aid=ucms_7zKuLKalOsZ","type":"doc","o":"1","documentId":"ucms_7zKuLKalOsZ"},"body":{"newStatus":"1","documentId":"ucms_7zKuLKalOsZ","staticId":"ucms_7zKuLKalOsZ","title":"问道周舍","shareTitle":"问道周舍","thumbnail":"http:\/\/d.ifengimg.com\/w150_h106_q100\/img1.ugc.ifeng.com\/newugc\/20200829\/18\/wemedia\/23b0a8c9a8fdb5ab7b36640eb5045e50668c49ac_size63_w555_h370.jpeg","source":"","author":"","editorcode":"刘洪睿 PQ082","editTime":"2020-08-29 19:14:36","updateTime":"2020\/08\/29 19:14:36","wapurl":"http:\/\/\/\/foodnwine.ifeng.com\/c\/7zKuLKalOsZ","introduction":"","wwwurl":"http:\/\/\/\/foodnwine.ifeng.com\/c\/7zKuLKalOsZ","commentsUrl":"ucms_7zKuLKalOsZ","commentCount":0,"text":"
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“周舍”是一家精致小巧的菜馆,可以看作是周大师的私房菜馆。餐饮圈的朋友午间欢聚,除了满足口腹之欲外,能够聆听一下周大师对菜的讲解,更让我多享受了一顿精神大餐。<\/p>
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我非常喜欢吃海派的炝虾,周大师的虾用的是上等的白虾,而且很有心思地把市井风味装盘得雍容华贵。<\/p>
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狮子头是传统老菜了,周大师的创新是用苏州三虾面的灵感融合一丸用菜叶包裹的迷你狮子头,顿时让脑满肠肥的肉丸子变得活泼灵动起来。<\/p>
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广东人折腾鳝鱼的功力还是比江浙一带稍逊一筹,鳝鱼糊软兜本就是江浙一带的拿手绝活,周大师又把北京片皮鸭的食法嫁接了过来,口感很均衡。周大师还道出做鳝丝的烹饪三法:煸透,炒透,翻透。对比广东人吃黄鳝时图个爽字,可真是一种味觉审美上的巨大差异啊。<\/p>
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同行的张新民老师对周大师的那一道韭芽鱼丝念兹在兹。我原以为这是广东鱼面一样的东西,但认真品尝发现竟然是用鳜鱼肉做成肉饼后再用刀仔细切成细丝。周大师强调刀切很重要,口感源自于此。怎样判断这道菜成功与否呢?周大师又补充介绍了一个三句诀:不见油,不见汁,不见芡。<\/p>
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我对江南的水磨年糕情有独钟,无论是米香还是那软糯的口感,比韩国年糕不知高到哪里去了,而且年糕的可塑性非常强,既能在黄鱼汤里身价不菲,也能在糖浆中温润可人。周大师的一道桂花拉糕再次刷新了我的认知,这道甜点同样有一个品鉴的三句箴言:粘盘,粘筷,不粘牙。说罢周大师把整个盘子翻过来,只见拉糕岿然不动地保持整齐有序,入口以后柔弱无骨,滑若凝脂,果真是不粘牙。<\/p>
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大师和师傅的区别在于,师傅可能只是一个操作的熟手,而大师则能够形成一个标准体系。比如一道红烧江鳗,周大师指着鳗鱼的皮说:鳗鱼要烧透软糯,但是表皮不能破,否则就是不合格。<\/p>
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行程匆匆,周舍的滋味只窥得冰山一角,但是周元昌大师的师道与匠心让人膺服不已。<\/p>
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